Counterflow

river surfing, no ocean required

About

Counterflow is written by Livia Bachmann, who grew up twenty minutes from Thun and spent most of her childhood assuming that surfing was something other people did, on other continents, in warm water. That changed the first time she watched someone hold a line on the wave below the Mühleschleuse for four straight minutes without paddling anywhere.

Switzerland has no coast. It has, instead, glacier-fed rivers running fast enough to fold into standing waves, a scene that's been quietly surfing them since the 1960s, and — more recently — wave pools built to do on purpose what the rivers do by accident. This site is a slow, ongoing attempt to visit as many of them as possible and write down what's actually there: the water temperature, the crowd, the closest tram stop.

No sponsorships, no gear reviews written for a discount. Just a notebook.